Category Archive : Epoxy Flooring

How to Create Your Own Epoxy Floor Coating – Guide

The floor coating of epoxy is a floor surface composed of many layers of epoxy added to the floor to a depth of less than two millimetres. Resins and hardeners are made up of epoxy. To chemically react, the resin and hardener are mixed together. This forms a solid, resistant to degradation, rigid plastic material that binds extremely well to its substrate. Have a look at high quality liquid epoxy to get more info on this.

Epoxy floors are extremely strong and can be used in the most challenging industrial environments and offer a beautiful addition to a daily traffic floor. To improve surfaces, obtain coloured effects, protect floors against corrosion, and achieve a water tight effect, high-grade epoxy resin is used. All of these attributes provide surfaces with greater toughness.

It could be simpler than expected to add your own epoxy flooring to a commercial building or a space in your home. Second, if the floor has a coating on it, you must decide. With previously installed coatings, epoxy coatings can react. A new epoxy floor would not work with polyurethane and latex floor paint. Therefore, before applying epoxy, you will need to remove the polyurethane or latex floor.

Until commencing any epoxy application, oil or grease stain residue must be extracted. Those stains can get rid of an industrial degreaser or solvent cleaner. In order to prevent asphyxiation or combustion during this phase, you need to be conscious. It would be important to sand or ground away rubber residue.

Take a small cup of muriatic acid combined with four parts water to one part acid to find previous coatings. Drip tiny quantities of the solution onto different floor areas. Areas that are not different need to be taken care of in colour , texture, or shininess. If there is not a coating present, the solution will fizz yellow.

To ensure the entire floor is moist, presoak the floor with a garden hose. Mix one gallon of the acid solution and the mixed bath. Muriatic acid or a masonry cleaner should be the acid. Pour the gallon uniformly in order to cover 70 to 100 square feet. Try to keep squares enclosed in the work.

The best way to apply a rigid bristled shop broom in a scrubbing motion is to use it. A white foamy reaction may occur. With spray, rinse the floor well. Broom it out with extra water. Enable the floor to dry entirely. The moisture trapped under the epoxy coating can cause the bond between the coating and the concrete surface to weaken or fail.

Drying can take place over a period of 7 to 10 days. Test dryness by overnight placement on the floor of a clear, moisture-proof item, such as a vinyl tile. Remove the concrete surface to look for signs of condensed water or a darkened appearance.

To coat the floor, select epoxy. It must contain epoxy resin, a viscous substance that is transparent or amber. A catalyst, which is a part of a multi-part epoxy system that causes the resin to harden, will also be needed. To make sure the resin and hardener are compatible, buy epoxy in a two part kit. Carefully read mixing instructions to ensure that correct quantities are combined.

To get rid of the semi-transparent substance that is epoxy, a pigment is a good idea. Pre-pigmented packets are the best bet, but it is possible to buy individual pigments as well. Different textures and degrees of traction are provided by texturing materials such as sandblasting and PVC plastic granules.